I'm wondering how other people are dealing with this problem, or are they just giving their customers a list of things they cannot wear and also patching up holes in post-production?
Yes, a spec sheet of acceptable materials is given to client, and yes to the other. There will ALWAYS be cleanup after the scan is processed. Hole filling, bump smoothing, texture cleaning, etc....
For some darker fabrics, as shown in this scan I did (
https://vimeo.com/104762987), you need high resolution, lots of even clear light, and sharp deep depth of field. You also need to always shoot RAW. Having RAW images can buy back some flexibility when processing the images. For the above scan, and most scans for that part, I run a pre-process of all of the images to brighten the shadows and bump up the exposures without clipping the details, run through Agisoft and once I have a decent mesh, I then swap the images out for more normal exposed versions to then process the texture pass.