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Messages - Lambo

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 12
16
Face and Body Scanning / Re: Setup for face scan
« on: February 09, 2015, 01:17:45 AM »
Hi wesclei, I use the software smartshooter for synchronizing the cameras, downloading the pictures, changing settings, etc. But I trigger the cameras with the cheaper Yongnuo triggers and they have been really good so far. I have a 63 camera rig and there has been only 2 triggers that failed but since they are so cheap, it is still totally worth it.
I sometimes have an issue that sounds almost like yours. I use Nikon D5100 cameras and sometimes I can not trigger 1 of the cameras or see the live view and the only way to solve it is to disconnect the wireless trigger and reconnect it.
Hope this helps a bit...
Leo

17
Hi Michael, I am interested in hearing a little more about it...
Leo

18
Face and Body Scanning / Rectangular vs Circular shooting area...
« on: February 09, 2015, 01:07:00 AM »
Hello everybody, after a couple of months of crazy work, I finally have time to get in here again.
I am about to move to a new space with the scanning rig and had a question for you.
I know that the most appropriate layout for scanning (placement of the cameras) is a circular one since that way you can maintain the focal length of all the cameras equal, you can zoom in into the subject the same amount (even though I know it is helpful to have some cameras capturing on different focal lengths and zooming more or less into the subject) but for the most part they should be similar to each other right?
At the same time, I also know that Photoscan does a great job of compensating and correctly calculating for different focal lengths since that is what I have now, an oval shape room and cameras arrangement and Photoscan still gives me good results.
The question comes since I am about to move to a slightly bigger place and I am thinking about placing the cameras directly to the wall with special brackets to maximize the space as much as possible. That would place the cameras in more of a rectangular fashion than oval. That means there would be a decent difference in focal lengths between some of the cameras.
I think that would be ok but I wanted to know if someone has done this or knows of a reason that would be counterproductive?
Well thanks a lot for any insights.
Take care...
Leo

19
Feature Requests / Re: Shortcut for adding and subtracting mask
« on: December 09, 2014, 01:10:58 AM »
+1, This can cut times when editing the masks considerably if we had a key shortcut for adding or substracting the areas selected.
Any buttons would be fine :)

Leo

20
Feature Requests / Re: Photoscan Professional "Artist" Edition
« on: November 04, 2014, 04:59:56 AM »
AWESOME!!!!!   Thank you Alexey and Photoscan team!! ;)

21
Face and Body Scanning / Re: New CMYB 3D printer..?
« on: October 21, 2014, 10:34:43 AM »
Also:  "When I graduated from Engineering school, I looked into this field and came up with this idea to make lifelike 3D printed photo figurines"
I didnt know he was the original person that came with the idea??? ;)

Leo

22
So far I have been able to connect 63 cameras with 1 single transmitter. It works good 99% of the time.
Leo

23
If you are doing everything the same as the way I explained, then what Magnus is saying might be the reason. I am, using Alienbees B800 flashes so the flash duration (t.1) is between 1/1100 and 1/900 of a second I guess since I have some at full power and some at half power.
And by the way, the setting is called Rear Curtain in the Nikon D5100 and on the D3200 so you might be seeing something different?
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/nikon-d3200/nikon-d3200FLASH.HTM

Leo

24
Face and Body Scanning / Re: How to overcome flash sync limit of 1/200th
« on: September 30, 2014, 10:01:14 PM »
The easiest way is to sync them with Studio flashes and not the ones in the cameras. You set the cameras to a shutter speed of around 1/5 sec to 1/10 sec. Then set 1 of the cameras (the one that sends the signal for the studio flashes) to fire the flash on second curtain. That way by the time the flash gets fired, all the camera shutters are already "open". I use all Nikon D5100 and it works pretty nice.
If you are trying to get jumping people, try to have as little ambient light as possible, specially for long hair subjects since if not they will have some ghosting.
Leo

25
Yes, I also have a simple 4 year old Dell laptop with USB2 and have all 63 cameras connected to it and working beautifully.
Leo

26
Face and Body Scanning / Re: Yongnuo Transceivers and double ballhead clamp
« on: September 29, 2014, 06:13:19 AM »
Hi Pearse, yes I was talking about the Manfrotto Superclamps that Magnus clarified earlier.  I am sorry I didnt answer earlier but I have been really busy :(
Leo

27
General / Re: Zbrush reset move/offset
« on: September 29, 2014, 05:08:54 AM »
Hi, I think I have a possible solution if I understand correctly what you need to do.
What you have to do is: Load the original file that doesnt have the transforms you need to do for the welding, etc.  Go to the right side of Zbrush where the modifiers are and go all the way down to the export subtab. Copy somewhere the transforms that you see for all 3 axis. After that, you can open the files that you already worked on and that you applied the transforms you needed and go to the same "export" subtab and paste the transforms you copied before (this file should have different transforms). After copying the transforms, export the file and then if you import it, it should have the original position it had before you did anything to it.
It works for me most of the time.
I hope this helps you...
Leo

28
General / Re: Proper angles and alignment
« on: September 27, 2014, 12:48:16 PM »
That is great!!!  Very glad we could help you.
Leo

29
Face and Body Scanning / Re: Yongnuo Transceivers and double ballhead clamp
« on: September 17, 2014, 02:08:19 AM »
Hi Pearse, cool that your system is going good! I use the same Yongnuo transceivers and they are working pretty good so far. You get 1 that doesn't work correctly every 15 or 20 of them but for the price, you cant beat that.
As for the clamps, I used some of those and I didn't like the strength of the clamping and they started slowly slipping down.
I do have however have the ones that you are using on the top of the stands but I have them holding  with superclamps on the sides of the stands and they are super strong and it is the cheapest you can do for a setup that solid.
Leo

30
Well... I will have to see that machine working because form the pictures, the colors seem to be pretty weird, there seems to be some bleeding, mixing, etc. The quality also doesn't look too good overall.
One interesting thing I saw was that when it was printing, it didn't fill the bed completely with powder and that is nice so that you don't have to wait extra time for no reason.
Strange also that they chose to shoot the video when the machine was all messy inside :)
And the resolution they are claiming, 9600 by 2400 dpi ??? The Zcorp Z650 has a resolution of 600 by 540 dpi. Are they talking about the total resolution so the dpi multiplied by the build size? That seems to be the case.
I am sure that soon many new Full color machines are going to start popping out everywhere.
Leo

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