What's the best way to trigger an array of EOS cameras?

[steve]

Hi,

 I'm trying to do a basic ring of 20 Eos 1100D's, to shoot head-and shoulders portraits. The results are for 3D printing, so I don't need super-fine detail or anything, so I was going to use constant lighting not flash, but I'd still like the cameras to trigger simultaneously if possible.

I've read through the forums and I'm a bit lost as to where to start? Would more experienced users recommend that I use IR triggers, or DSLR-multi-cam-pro (which seems very expensive), or MagicLantern or Smartshooter etc.?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated,

Many thanks,
Steve

[Magnus]

Hello Steve!

I trigger my setup with just a regular corded remote shutter release connected to all the cameras thru 3,5mm splitters and relevant adapters.
The setup is a mix between 2 Canon 600D, 8 Nikon D3200 and 16 Canon 1100D, which changes depending on what I do, hehe (currently I have the 1100Ds in it for some testing).
When I have the 1100Ds in the rig I usually need to set the shutters to 1/5th-1/8th on them to not get black frames.
For offloading I use Smart Shooter and it has worked very well so far, also in mixed camera situations. Triggering thru usb leads to one camera after the other so not really usable.

A word of warning about constant light... you would need lots of it, especially if you are going to diffuse it, flash is very much recommended instead.

Best, Magnus.

[steve]

Hi Magnus,

 Thanks so much for your reply.

The hole for the trigger on a 1100D seems to be 2.5mm and I can't find anyone selling any kind of female-to-two-males-splitter that would fit. Is there particular set of adapters that you use to get your 1100Ds working together?

Best,

Steve

[Magnus]

Hello Steve!

Correct, the Canon has a 2,5mm port.

The way I have them connected is a 2,5mm short male to male cable connected into a 2,5mm Y-splitter (two female to one male). This in turn is connected into a long 2,5mm female-male cable that goes into a 2,5mm (female) to 3,5mm (male) adapter. This one is finally connected into a Belkin Rockstar splitter, I have several of them chained together.

You could do it in lots of different ways, this is just the way I did it, so don't see it as a recommendation, hehe.

Before I had mostly 3,5mm cables connected thru splitters that went into the cameras with a 2,5mm male to 3,5mm female adapter at the end.
I changed from this since the 2,5mm cables I found were much thinner and because of that they don't put much strain on the port sockets (I change my rig around a lot so not an issue if you don't).

Best, Magnus.

[Christian]

Hi Magnus,

it seems you had a same "problem" I currentyl have - you have Canon and Nikon in the mix. I still try to find out the pros and cons and kindly ask for your experience. I assume you are using the kit-lenses? Do you see - in you daily work and only from your own point of view - any advantages of one of these? Most decide for Canon because of software based Breeze/MultiCamera solutions - you seem to use a "handmade" solution (which I currently prefere because of budget reasons) - other deside agains Nikon 3200 because of "blury" images. But there is rarely nothing to find about the real-life usage.

Steve - do you already have samples with the 1100s? Also with kit lenses? Whats the focal lenght you used?

Thank you !!
Christian

[david]

I just want to throw in this gadget

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aputure-Radio-Remote-Trigger-AP-WR1C/dp/B005ZF5GA4

Yesterday we tried to trigger it in the shop with two 600Ds [only for a test]. It worked. I would love to know if its worth the money . Its pretty cheap for "wireless" solution. Of-course it works with multiple cameras but I don't know if it creates any time lags. I am considering to buy it. I see one problem that they only sell boxes with receivers and triggers together. So when you buy it for multiple cameras you end up with lot of triggers

On the other hand, wire solution which magnus mentioned is also interesting [and cheaper ]. I would like to know if you have any problems with lags after hitting the button. Are you considering to switch into the wireless in future? Or is wire solution more reliable.?

 

[Magnus]

Hello!

Christian, I'd say there are no particular advantages of mixed system, hehe. I will most likely just add Canons going forward (600D but I want to get some 100D with STM lens though).
The kit lenses are good enough for what I need (having zoom range is important to me, that's just my setup though) and if you look at reviews (with caution) they do seem to yield good results. I am actually very content with the end results now, this again is dependent on my intended application though, hehe.

David, the way we trigger now is using a Cactus V4 trigger (older model) on one camera with the receiver connected to studio flash. We have actually had consistent results with no black frames with the cameras set at 1/50th shutter, 8 Nikon D3200 and 10 Canon 1100D (one word of WARNING: I have not tried different flashes so their burn time might be long which might affect these results).
We still trigger the cameras with simple corded remote. We always half-press the trigger (pre-focus command) and this is what seems to make the difference (this works even when cameras are in manual focus). It even worked at 1/100th but we've only did it once as a test (with the previously mentioned 18 mixed cameras). The reason for our shutterspeed is due to the noise-projection (two-stage capture).

I think we will stick with corded solution simply because it works and is cheap, hehe.

Best, Magnus.
 

[Magnus]

Hello again!

Small update which some of you here might find of interest.

We just tested our rig with a Canon Speedlite 580EX II connected to the Cactus trigger (in its hotshoe, I held the Speedlite and trigger in my hand). It was set at full power which means a flash duration of 1/285 (according to speedlights.net test data).
The results, no black frames when all cameras were set at 1/50 or 1/100 shutter (8 Nikon D3200 and 10 Canon 1100D).
These were just one time tests so keep that very much in mind (we have other things to do, hehe)! Do not plan anything around this before testing it out yourself extensively.
It does seem to show that the pre-focus (yet cameras set to manual focus) makes a huge difference though in tightening the sync.

Best, Magnus.

[polygon]

Hi Magnus,

    The 580EX II can do Flat-Pulse, it flashed mutiple times in very short time, so it might fix the black frames.

Chris

[Minhazul Haque]

Hello

You can use COR2TECT's multicamera software to trigger an array of EOS cameras. It helps to trigger all the cameras simultaneously & works wonderfully with EOS cameras. The software can be used for multi-camera photography, 3D Photography, 360/180 degree photography. It is easy & simple to use, you don't even need IT the knowledge to connect the cameras. The clustering system & stabilization is automatic, you don't need any hardware other than USB Hub to connect all the cameras with PC. You can check that out, here is the link:

https://cor2tect.com/

I hope it will be able to solve your problems.

Thank You

[pbourke]

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