Continuous Lighting for full body capture

[I-C-E]

Hello, I am not sure if this topic has already been in discussion so apologies in adavance.

I am setting up a full body capture rig with 20 cameras with the help of a turntable( hoping to increase number of cameras soon). I want to use continuous lighting for the setup but can't seem to find a good solution. The settings of the camera is such that it needs really good defused lighting. Can't seem to get a hang of it :/

Any help would be much appreciated!

[FoodMan]

this would ne mice I think...

http://www.lightngrip.com/

f/

[Lambo]

Wow they are really nice! But I couldn't find a price for that specific one. The smaller versions are around $600 so this one must be at least $1000 plus the power supply for them

Leo

[I-C-E]

@FoodMan
Thanks , I am looking at mini hmi lights also for this set-up. I am getting them for around $150 here in India. Ill have to test them out. I think around six of them should do really well.

Do you think a multiple(around 50)  tube-light/cfl set-up diffused by cloth or acrylic sheet will do for the setup ?

I saw this as well and got the idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFzIP_TN75A

[meshmixup]

Have you considered the LED light panels? It saves you a lot of space.

Something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30W-500-LED-Portable-Photo-photography-Lighting-Light-Panel-With-Mount-Bracket-/320996218438

[I-C-E]

@meshmixup
I am looking at LED lighting as well, and yeah that would save a lot of space
But it will not give as much light as say many CFL bulbs. The CFL setup also has to be as good as the strobe flashes.

The camera setting will be at ISO-100, f-stop at f/13 say. Hence the lighting has to be really really good to give sharp images and I cant figure out which light can do that apart from a strobe flash. However with flash you camera shutter will have release at once and with Smartshooter software there is always a lag. Hence my reason to go with continuous lighting.

This lighting setup is really going over my head :/

[Lambo]

I tried an LED light setup and they didnt emit even close to enough light so be careful to choose good LED light with lots of power.
I-C-E, what cameras are you using? Are they all the same model? If so, they should be close enough on the shutter speeds to do it with flashes.
Leo

[Magnus]

Hello!

You should not try to trigger thru Smart Shooter since it sends the signal thru USB, use the shutter release ports on the cameras and use either corded or wireless remote.

There are a few ways to set the delay on the flash so that you can capture it even if the cameras are out of sync.

You could use the PocketWizard MultiMax http://www.pocketwizard.com/products/transmitter_receiver/multimax/

Precision Delay Times
Custom set in transmit mode for remote units and/or port 2 on the MultiMAX.  In receiver mode, precision delay offers delay sequencing or camera/flash synchronization.

You can use strobes that has such capability (Elinchrom strobes for example can be set at different delays, other brands might too).

You can use a device such as Multiflash Plus (this is what I use) http://www.techphotoblog.com/tpb-66/

If you have a speedlite you can set it to rear curtain sync and use it on one camera (set at a shorter shutter say 1/25th or so and the other cameras at 1/8th or so) and trigger other strobes by its light.

These are some ways to do it.

I've mixed Canon 100D, 1100D, 600D and Nikon D3200 in a rig without issue.

Best, Magnus.

[scanlab.ca]

There's only 2 cases when you might want to use Continues Lighting for your rig:
1. Keep complexity of your Scanning Rig down, while learning about photogrammetry
2. You have enough cameras to maximize the parallax

Details:
Continues light solutions are way too bright for Character Scanning, since you will need to drop your apertures to f/16 to get enough data. This will become even more of an issue once you go with CPFs.
Having more cameras will enable you to discard more of the peripheral low quality information in each one of your photos: bokeh, lens distortion etc.
Once you maximize parallax and more of your in focus data begins to overlap, only then you will be able to up f-stops to widen up your aperture and let more light in.


I hope this makes sense.