Long, narrow objects can be a little tricky. You want as many pixels per image as possible devoted to the object (as opposed to the background), and if possible, you want the whole object in focus.
One way to maximize object-pixels per image is this: Stand the object up vertically on the turntable by placing it on some plasticine clay, or in a sandbox, with the long axis of the object directly over the center of the turntable (so that the object rotates around the center of the long axis). Take pictures in "portrait" rather than "landscape" view. This fills as much of the frame as possible with your object.
Alternatively, you can shoot the object in parts, process these parts in "chunks," and then align and merge the chunks.
For the hammer, I think you can do just fine with the first approach.
The attached screenshot will give you an idea for shooting pattern. If you look closely, you can see 4 rotations around the object. The top two rotations are shot with the object resting on its base. The bottom two rotations are shot with the object resting on its distal end. So, after two rotations, I turn the object over. You should do the same. Probably the most proximal and distal rotations should be higher and lower, respectively, than what you see here, in order to get better coverage of the ends; in addition, note that these proximal and distal rotations have fewer images than the two more central rotations. That's just for efficiency. For something like your hammer you ought to be able to get away with about the same approach.
I bet three rotations is sufficient. One at the midpoint of the long axis. Two at the extremes, with coverage of the ends.
Any basic lens should be sufficient. If you're having problems with glare, for example from lacquer or because the metal is shiny, tend to your lighting or consider buying a circular polarizing filter for your lens. They're cheap.